Custom Gunstock   (Continued)

      Fitting a recoil pad or a rifle pad is not one of my favorite projects, but sometimes it just has to be done.   I use a recoil pad jig made by B-Square, and it makes the job a bit easier.   I use a bench sander with an 80 Grit belt to reduce the size of the pad.   Then I switch to a 220 grit belt, until the white chalk line is almost gone.   Then I install the pad, and do fhe final fitting with a bench disk sander using a 320 grit disk.   This leaves a very smooth finish on the sides of the pad, and the fit becomes perfectly flush with the wood.

      Notice the thin white chalk line under the rifle pad.   This makes it a bit easier to see when you're sanding the rifle pad to size.   This scribed line was made after attaching the pad, and using the point of a finishing nail to trace the stock.   The white was added by running a piece of chalk along the scribed line.   The excess chalk powder was then rubbed off the surface.

      Whenever you put a screw into a recoil pad, it's a good idea to use a screwdriver with a round shaft.   It's also important to coat the screwdriver shaft (and the screw) with some type of grease.   This avoids leaving rub marks on the rear of the pad.   If this is done correctly, there should be no visible trace where the screws are located.

      Look at the inside of this stock after the initial bedding.   This is quite different compared to its original shape.   I like to use Devcon Putty for the initial build up, and for the final bedding I use Devcon Liquid Steel.   The final bedding is about to begin in this area, and in the tang area (behind the bolt).   If this whole process is done properly, this rifle will be much more accurate.   At this point (after the initial bedding) I've put 21 hours into this stock.